Despite a gloriously bright summer afternoon, we see a depressing corner of Southend-on-Sea's Adventure Island. A young couple sits on some white towels in front of a wall that is adorned with graffiti and has its paint rubbed away. It is a scene of squalor and desolation in a town that makes revenue from the day-tripper holiday market. Since Victorian times, many Londoners have traditionally come to this south-east coast on the Thames Estuary, close to the capital. Towns like this have seen a marked decline since the advent of the package tourism in favour of exotic beaches in Spain.